tasting memories

Angelica and I spent Saturday afternoon at the Chocolate Show. These last few weeks have been very trying on our whole family and I thought a chocolate experience could lift our spirits. Chocolate, the great healer! The Chocolate Show featured a selection of chocolatiers from all around the world. We sampled chocolates originating in Madagascar, Africa, Ecuador, Venezuela and Columbia and confections from the Americas, Europe and Asia.

Here are some of our favorites:

Mary's - a Japanese chocolatier with the most delicately shaped ganache rolled in powdered green tea and others in black sesame seeds. Their booth featured a chocolate decorating section where chefs would decorate truffles with delicate designs with a definite Japanese sensibility.

Comptoir Du Cacao - of the European chocolatiers, Comptoir Du Cacao (L'Anche, 45210 Bazoches/Betz, France) caught my attention. With a very simple presentation of wooden boxes their chocolate was deeply flavorful and complex.

Jacques Torres - now I understand what all the talk is about. Renowned Jacques Torres' chocolates were among the best of the show.

Oliver Kita - Hudson Valley chocolatier Oliver Kita, had a wonderfully decadent presentation and an ultra friendly staff, all in red suit coats. They had samples of chocolate from different regions - delightful!

Chocolat Moderne - If you like spiced hot chocolate, try Joan Coukos' Chocolat Moderne Snake Charmer a wonderfully thick beverage fragrant with anise and other spices.

Amano - One to watch out for is Art Pollard's Amano artisanal chocolate based in Salt Lake City, Utah.

Quady Winery - From California with a lovely Orange Muscat desert wine, Essencia. An absolutely delightful wine reminiscent of caramel and spices.

The show was a highlight of my month and worth weathering the traditional New York crowds for. What an opportunity to learn more about chocolate in its many forms. Angelica and I walked out of the show thoroughly high on chocolate, our cheeks red and with a perma-grin.

Unlike the all-day marathon that Thanksgiving dinner usually is, our feast was simple and delightful: Duck with Cranberry Sauce, truffled mashed potatoes, green beans and popovers. Check out Gordon Ramsay's demonstration of the Duck with Gooseberry Sauce. Brilliant approach: simple, passionate, to the point. Yes! Gooseberries are not in season this time of year, so we used cranberries instead.

Duck with Cranberry Sauce
4 duck breasts with skin on
2 tablespoons Szechwan peppercorns
1/2 cup sugar
zest of 1 lemon
2 cups fresh cranberries
1 1/4 cups (about half a bottle) dry red wine
1 1/4 cups brown chicken stock
1-2 tablespoons honey
2 tbsp butter, cut into cubes
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
olive oil

1. Preheat oven to 400°. Score the skin of the duck breasts in a criss-cross pattern. Toast the Szechwan peppercorns in a dry pan until fragrant, then tip into a pestle and mortar with a little salt and pepper. Lightly crush the mixture and use to generously coat the duck breasts.

2. Place the duck breasts, skin-side down, on a dry ovenproof pan and cook on the stovetop over very low heat to render down most of the fat. This may take 10-15 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fat.

3. Place the sugar in a small saucepan with a cup of water. Gently heat, stirring occasionally, until the sugar has dissolved. Add the lemon zest and mix through. Increase the heat and boil the liquid for a few minutes until slightly thickened. Tip in the cranberries and gently poach for 1 minute. Leave to cool in the syrup.

4. For the sauce, place the red wine in a pan, season with a little salt and pepper, and boil for 7-8 minutes until reduced by half. Pour in the stock and reduce again by half.

5. Drain off most of the fat from the duck, then turn up the heat fry until the skin is crisp. Add a touch of olive oil, turn them over and cook the flesh side for 1-2 minutes. Place the pan into the hot oven for 8-10 minutes for medium-cooked duck, which should be slightly springy when pressed.

6. Stir the honey into the sauce. Take the pan off the heat and add a few knobs of butter for shine, swirling the liquid to melt the butter. Transfer the cranberries to the sauce to warm through, adding the syrup according to taste. Taste and adjust the seasoning.

7. When ready, rest the duck on a warm plate for a few minutes. Slice the duck breasts thickly on the diagonal and fan out. Spoon over the sauce and serve.

Makes 4 servings.

Our good friends Justin and Sarah took us to The Bistro at the Cliff House in San Francisco a few years back. It was our first day in San Francisco after a long drive from Wyoming. Great company and a wonderful birthday feast in honor of Sarah's father greeted us. Of all the good food The Bistro served, most memorable were the popovers that came piping hot to the table by the basketfuls. This was the first time I tried popovers. The memory of this event solidified around these light pillows of bread and now every time I make them I remember that day with our friends. Cheers to Sarah and Justin for sharing such a great experience!

Popovers are easy to make. This recipe came from Food and Wine.

Popovers
1 1/2 cups milk
1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
1 1/2 teaspoons kosher salt
3 tablespoons rendered beef fat (from the roast) or melted butter

1. Preheat the oven to 425°. Put a large 12-cup muffin pan in the oven to heat. In a medium bowl, combine the milk with the flour, eggs, salt and 1 tablespoon of the beef fat. Using an electric mixer, beat until very smooth.

2. Remove the hot muffin pan from the oven and add 1/2 teaspoon of the beef fat to each cup.

3. Return the muffin pan to the oven and heat until the fat is very hot, about 5 minutes. Carefully and quickly pour the popover batter into the muffin cups and bake for 20 minutes; don't open the oven door. Reduce the heat to 350° and bake for about 20 minutes, until the popovers are golden brown and puffed. Serve right away.

Makes 12 popovers.